Terroir je jedným z tých zvučných slov, ktoré objíma každý vo vinárskom svete, ale čo to v skutočnosti znamená? A má to skutočne vplyv na vína, ktoré výrobcovia tvrdia? Rupert Joy sa rýpe hlboko, aby to zistil
Terroir je jedným z tých zvučných slov, ktoré objíma každý vo vinárskom svete, ale čo to v skutočnosti znamená? A má to skutočne vplyv na vína, ktoré výrobcovia tvrdia? Rupert Joy sa rýpe hlboko, aby to zistil
čierna listina, sezóna 5, epizóda 7
Na juh od Condrieu v severnej Rhône leží drobné označenie Château-Grillet. Jeho 3,4 hektáre viniča na strmých svahoch prírodného amfiteátra produkujú nepatrné množstvá vína z rovnakej odrody hrozna a pôd ako jeho oveľa väčší sused Condrieu. Ale od roku 1936 je uznávaný ako samostatný AC a predáva sa za oveľa viac. Jeho majiteľka, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, zdôrazňuje, že originalita vína vyrobeného z jeho žulových pôd a južnej expozície je uznávaná po celé storočia. Niektorí z jej susedov si však kladú otázku, či existuje rozdiel medzi terármi Château-Grillet a Condrieu.
Myšlienka, že jednotlivé časti krajiny produkujú obzvlášť vynikajúce vína, nie je nová. Filozof John Locke, ktorý navštívil Bordeaux v roku 1677, si všimol „osobitosť v pôde“ zámku Château Haut-Brion, ktorý ho odlišoval od jeho susedov. Kniha od opáta Arnouxa, ktorá vyšla v Londýne v roku 1728, pripisovala veľkosti burgundského Montrachetu konkrétnemu pásu zeme na pobreží Côte d’Or.
Moderným javom je použitie slova „terroir“ na popísanie tejto myšlienky. Jej pôvodné francúzske konotácie boli pejoratívne. Až do polovice 20. storočia víno terroité znamenalo rustikálne, zemité víno, v lepšom prípade s akýmsi jarmočným šarmom a v najhoršom prípade s chybami. Víno s goût de terroir (príchuť terroiru) bolo chatrne vyrobené víno, ktoré chutilo po nezrelých alebo zhnitých hroznoch. Myšlienka terroiru ako pozitívnejšieho atribútu sa objavila až pri zrode systému AC v 30. rokoch.
Každý má svoju vlastnú definíciu terroiru. Azda najjednoduchšie je to od amerického spisovateľa vína Matta Kramera, ktorý ho označuje ako „čosi“. Väčšina francúzskych definícií, vrátane definícií INAO (orgán zodpovedný za francúzsky systém striedavého prúdu), obsahuje štyri kľúčové prvky: fyzikálne vlastnosti miesta (najmä pôda a expozícia), jeho podnebie, použitá odroda hrozna a úloha človeka. .
NCIS: Los Angeles, sezóna 8, epizóda 14
Málokto by poprel základný predpoklad, podľa ktorého vína odvodzujú určité vlastnosti z miesta, kde sa ich hrozno pestuje, a že pri ich vyjadrovaní hrá úlohu človek. Ale vzhľadom na to, že takmer každý výrobca vína v dnešnej dobe tvrdí, že vyrába vína, ktoré rešpektujú terroir, a tvrdí, že uplatňuje „neintervenčný“ prístup, má spotrebiteľ všetky dôvody zaujímať sa, čo terroir v praxi znamená.
wayne brady na odvážnych a krásnych
Korene terroiru
Možno preto, že sa to slovo podobá na „terén“, máme tendenciu spájať terroir hlavne s pôdou. To zase môže povzbudiť dojem, že vína priamo získavajú chuť z pôdy, v ktorej sa pestujú.
Klasickým príkladom je Chablis, jedno z najznámejších vín na svete. Napriek tomu, že je vyrobený z všadeprítomnej odrody viniča, chabliský výraz Chardonnay je odlišný od výrazu v ktorejkoľvek inej oblasti. Najuznávanejšie vína pochádzajú z mäkkého kimmeridiánskeho kriedového slinu, ktorý je zložený z prehistorických škrupín ustrice.
Výrobcovia a autori vína často vytvárajú spojenie medzi charakteristickou jemnou jódovou chuťou vína a geológiou regiónu. „Ako inak si môžete vysvetliť jodizované tóny v Chablis, ak nie zložením pôdy?“ Pýta sa Bernard Billaud-Simon. „Túto chuť nenájdete v Chardonnays pestovaných inde.“
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Zaujímavé Články
