Vintage Report: Barolo 2009- Winestealssd.com

Barolo 2009,

Piemont

Tom Maresca bol touto ochutnávkou v roku 2009 ostro sklamaný, pričom ako dôvod tohto „skľučujúceho“ predstavenia uviedol zlyhanie vinárov pri riešení otázky, aké ťažké bolo vinobranie.

„Niekoľko rokov 2009 odôvodnilo optimizmus ohľadne ich dlhovekosti a väčšina výrobcov hovorila o roku 2009 ako o ročníku pitia krátkodobých nápojov“

Ročník 2009 Barolo bude konfrontovať spotrebiteľov s tvrdými pravdami a tvrdými vínami. V máji som v Nebbiolo Prima v Albe ochutnal viac ako 200 príkladov filmu Barolo 2009. Väčšina vín, ktorá bola v ponuke počas piatich dní konania, nechýbala iba klasická farba Nebbiolo, ale ani takmer nijaké arómy ani príchute Nebbiolo.

Milujem Barolo a vážim si a obdivujem mnohých jeho producentov za ich odhodlanie a jasnosť ich vízie. Napriek tomu musím povedať, že na tomto ročníku výkon mnohých z nich jednoducho nechýbal, bol skľučujúci.

Samozrejme, že existovali výnimky: niekoľko výrobcov - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, pre niektorých - sa ukázalo ako celkom pitné Barolo. Niektoré z nich - najmä Pio Cesare a Massolino-Vigna Rionda - dokonca veria v potenciál starnutia svojho vína. Tento názor často odrážali obchodníci a kupujúci, ktorí ochutnali výber z týchto vín o týždeň skôr ako novinári, a s producentmi (nie slepými). Ale k môjmu vkusu - a podľa názoru mnohých novinárov, s ktorými som hovoril - sa zdá, že väčšina výrobcov Barolo vážne podcenila náročnosť tohto ročníka. Niekoľko rokov 2009 odôvodnilo optimizmus ohľadom ich dlhovekosti a väčšina producentov hovorila o roku 2009 ako o ročníku pitia krátkodobých nápojov.

Giacomo Conterno, z vinárstva Aldo Conterno v obci Monforte, bol jedným z otvorenejších producentov. Povedal: „Rok 2009 bol vinobraním. Koncom augusta boli niektoré vinice [Nebbiolo] už takmer zrelé a niektoré úplne nedozreté - rozdiel medzi nimi je takmer 30 dní. To, čo ste s tým urobili, rozhodlo o tom, aké víno ste vyrobili. ‘Zvyčajne pozitívne hodnotenie tohtoročnej úrody podľa Consorzio je veľmi strážené:

„Ročník 2009 sa bude pamätať aj pre jeho nepravidelný vzor dozrievania ... Pokiaľ ide o technologické dozrievanie, ročník je možné umiestniť medzi rokmi 2003 a 2007 ... Pokiaľ ide o fenolické dozrievanie ... údaje nájdené v hroznoch boli porovnateľné s rokom 2003 ... v tomto ročníku sa výsledky nie vždy zlepšili oneskorením zberu. “

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Napísal Tom Maresca